i was back at it, slaving away over aluminum handrailing, trying to make the world a safer place. all i could think of was climbing though. with arapalies and the grampians only hours away i was busy making plans... old 'blueballs' Grug and his little german friend had just set up camp in the pines and i was soon off to join them. i only had the wkends however so i had to make them count!
Day 1, Taipan wall! i searched the pines high, an i searched them low but no sign of Grug, did they show. i heard a whisper in the trees that they were at some magical wonderland, full of amazing orangeness, where the bins are plentiful and the vegies never go off. well ok they were at taipan. i cruised on up to join them, albeit a touch late! Grug was just about to get on Invisible Fist (26). he fought his way up it, figuring out the moves. i got on and did the same. alright, i had it sussed, but did i have the fitness?! i pulled into the crux, somehow staying on. with a roar to rival any, i managed it second shot! the sun came along to ruin the party and we hightailed to araps for some classics! sunday rolled by with a flurry of classics, highlights being Dreadnought(24) and thundercrack(20)!!
so back at work, doing my bit for the flailing economy. all week i dreamed of araps, and what awaited me next weekend. friday finally came and i was off, out west again! straight to the pines where we talked shit well into the night. the morning broke and we headed back up Ali's to the base of an amazing route, Final Departure(27). after a few hours of flailing i couldnt work out the crux properly. it felt like 9a! so we pulled the pin and went back to camp with our tails between our legs. we were both pretty stuffed but decided to go try a route id been told was amazing, Yesterday(26).
the approach is epic by arapiles standards. but the 15 minutes rolled by quickly and we were soon at the base. a valiant effort by Grug got halfway up the route, stopped by a crazy dyno-thing. i decided to man up and take the lead, all the way to the top to put a top-rope on it... not my finest hour but if you think i honestly care im sorry, whatever! anyway we had a play and figured out some moves before calling it a day! the next day we marched stright back up the gully. with a few friends up to watch it was my turn on the sharp-end. i psyched up but the boulder problem to start spat me off. again i pulled on and made it through. i couldnt fall now! i got to the rest, then stuck the dyno! shit, dont fall now. shakily making my up i had to dig so deep to hang on, even the final jugs felt insanely hard!! i lowered off and gave Grug a belay, but no luck unfortunately!
i was soon driving back to Geelong, next weekend i was keen to head to Buffalo, to get a mini big-wall fix! i had big plans to be a hero, i wanted to solo Clouded Queen, the whole route. but fate had other plans....